Portonovo | Something Very Fishy

Moreno Cedroni is one of Italy’s creative minds in culinary matters. He’s got a couple of Michelin stars to his name and, with all due respect, a reputation that goes way beyond Bibendum. He also happens to be one of the four chefs on the yacht with Farinetti and Soldini due into New York any day now.

Cedroni’s passion for seafood (and genius in transforming it) has spurned some of the finest seafood restaurants in Italy. The elegant Madonnina del Pescatore near Senigallia is considered one of the ten best restaurants in the country, and his latest venture, the new Clandestino restaurant inside the Maison Moschino hotel in Milan, is surely one of the trendiest.

Cedroni has his own factory where he transforms top quality raw materials into preserves. Over the years, he’s created an original line ofjellies, jams and sauces like nothing you’ve come across before, and he sells them in his own seafood deli in Senigallia.

Of all of his ventures, my personal favourite is the Clandestino just outside Ancona, practically dipping its toes in the Adriatic sea on Portonovo beach. You’ll find shabby-chic interiors, stripped teak floors, a view to kill for, and superlative seafood. Sushi becomes susci, Italian-style, Cedroni-style.

Sundowners at the Clandestino are a must for beautiful people around these parts, with sushi tapas and snacks. The menus are original and varied: a beach menu of light lunches, one combining seafood with game, and à la carte susci for dinner. The tasting menu at dinner will set you back around €85 plus drinks. Clandestino on the beach is open from April to October every year. Getting there is enough to make your GPS go crazy, so make sure you get detailed directions.