Capriva del Friuli | 12.5° Lodging

One of the best beds I’ve slept on in a while was way up in FVG, on a hill not far from Gorizia which gives its name to an outstanding Collio region estate, Russiz Superiore property of one Marco Felluga. Not that we realized that when we finally arrived at the Relais Russiz Superiore in the middle of a wet night, betrayed by the sat nav. But morning revealed a stunning 360° panorama over impeccably tended vineyards, gentle hills, impossibly green hollows and the idyllic quiet of the Collio area, renowned for its excellent whites. It also treated us to delicious, locally-sourced fresh breakfast fare at a 4-metre-long table in the manor house.

The Relais, a boutique B&B, has 7 spacious rooms with chic, classic country décor, immaculately kept. Renovated a couple of years ago, it’s the latest addition to the business and sits atop the spectacular cellars where reds are aged. It’s the perfect base for walking and cycling through the Collio, wine tours and tastings, and fine dining (on request) with house wines to die for. Wine-making in the Felluga family goes back over 100 years. Around 50 hectares are planted with vines at Russiz Superiore, one of two estates where research and innovation have paid off for Marco and son Roberto, respectively 4th and 5th generation in this line of work. The Collio Bianco Col Disôre is perhaps the top label among several regularly celebrated whites and 3 illustrious reds produced here.